This photo was my welcome to the Amalfi Coast. I took it on the way in from Naples, and who knew that it might be a harbinger of things to come?! It was pretty and dramatic, and capturing the photo only cost me a few rude gestures from the lady behind me. She was one of those who is in a hurry in the midst of a traffic jam. You know the type right? Driving on this coast is for the birds, who do not drive, and that is precisely my point. I encountered motorcycles coming at me head-on in MY lane, driving in the middle between lanes, trucks coming head on, swinging wide on curves, and causing those of us in cars to back up to make room. As a result, I have a car here that has been parked since my arrival. You need to put this in perspective, because I am a real mother trucker…I drive everywhere, without hesitation, because I can. I got here with minimum trouble (well maybe a little bit), but even if you can drive these crazy roads its the parking that is the problem. There is NONE, or Nienté as they say here.
The storm on the way in, was in some ways related to the lack of parking…at least in my head. I stopped in Sorrento, the first city on this coast that is part of Amalfi as you come here from Naples. There was a grocery store there, and I saw a few open spots on the street in front of it. No meters, no signs, but no matter… I came out of the store with a few provisions, and jammed them into the trunk. As I started the car the proximity alarm went off…BEEEP< BEEP< BEEP, and since it was an unfamiliar car, I’m thinking,”What the h…?! what does that alarm mean?” I quickly realized that someone had pulled in so close on my backside that the car was warning of impending collision. I had to get out of the parking spot, and had about 5 inches in front of me, so I began jockeying the manual transmission back and forth, reverse and forward, trying to get my nose out into traffic, and not hit anything, all the while listening to that incessant BEEEP <BEEP<BEEP. Once I got out into traffic, I breathed a sigh of relief. It was then that I noticed a piece of paper under my windshield wiper…it looked suspiciously like a ticket. I tried to grab it, but traffic was intense, and the windshield wiper was out of my reach, so I drove with the paper there, figuring I’d get to it when things calmed down.
That’s when the heavens opened up! A storm of Biblical proportions came up over the mountain and began to drench everything in sight. Once I found the switch for my windshield wipers, they had to go to full power (do you see where this is going…?), and bit by bit, the ticket disintegrated along the road. The poor vespa drivers had to pull off the roads which were now waterfalls. The hikers and cyclists were even more pitiful. The clouds and rain were so thick that I couldn’t see Positano as I drove past…it was completely shrouded by the weather. When the bulk of the storm moved off shore, the waterspout in the above photo formed. It was exciting, and it was intense! Because I never saw the ticket, I may now have a warrant out for my arrest due to lack of payment, I’ll never know, or perhaps I will get the bill when I turn in my rental car.
I share the story, because it seems illustrative of my sense of this place. It’s exciting, it’s beautiful, and there’s a bit of anxiety, a good dose of exhaustion, and maybe even danger in experiencing it. The Amalfi coast is not for travel sissies. No denying that there is great beauty here, but this beauty has a price. It’ll cost you quite a bit of physical exertion, constant confusion, tons of stairs to climb, and crowds, crowds, and more crowds. I thought having a car would help me possibly get away from moving with the pack on public transportation, but you can believe the tourist travel guides when they say that you don’t want a car for hopping from town to town here. That doesn’t mean that public transportation is ideal. In fact, busses get so full that they won’t stop for you. Signs regarding directions on where to go for info and tickets are next to non-existent in the towns. Where to meet the bus is basically a matter of memorizing where you see it stop along the way, or where you got off. My best suggestion is to look for tabacci shops. You can usually get info or tickets for the bus there. It’s commonplace to have fellow travelers on the bus, who don’t know where to get off or whether they are even on the correct bus (sometimes that traveler was me!) At night, the lights remain on inside the bus, preventing you from seeing out the window to identify your stop on the dark roads. Nothing about the bus system is either reliable or intuitive, so adjust your expectations, and you’ll be fine. Be ready to roll with whatever happens, and it’s probably wise to carry enough money to grab a taxi if all else fails. In the end I’ve found that if you give yourself lots of time, and are ready to walk a long distance, without packing in too many things into one day, you can enjoy the beauty and not get overwhelmed. You may be tired, but somehow it all works out.
The other night my friend asked a bus driver when the next bus to our town would be here. He told her,” It’s coming from that way and will be here soon…10 minutes.” When she responded,” That’s what the last bus driver told us ½ hour ago.” The bus driver just replied,” Then go have a drink.” Ahhh, Italy!
Having said that, I’m finally attuned to where I am on the public system bus lines, and where my favorite spots are. I’m even occasionally opting out of rushing around to see everything, and yesterday enjoyed my quiet hotel in Praiano (located between Amalfi and Positano). Since I like quiet and peace, this is a good place for me to nest and rest. When I want excitement, I visit the busier towns. There I can find shopping, photo opportunities and sketching sites.
As the sun sets on another day, I hope you enjoy these shots from my travels along this rugged and beautiful coastline .
I’m getting very excited to think about heading to Tuscany at the end of the week for my EAT PAINT COOK TOUR 2015! The ease and authentic nature of the beauty and the people in Tuscany will be welcome after my time here on the Amalfi Coast. I’m musing about our introductory lessons there…and journaled with a little bit of sketching.
Tomorrow I’m heading for more sites of interest…hopefully Pompeii and the ruins of the catastrophic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius during the Roman Empire. If you’d like to weigh in with thoughts on your experiences on the Amalfi, or any thoughts that come to mind, I’d welcome your comments below. I read every one, and try to respond once I do.
Stay in touch and Stay tuned!